Boot or shoe



, (No Model.)

W. H. WETMORB.

BOOT 0R S563.

No. 297.207. Patented Apr. 22, 1884.

Wbb-119.55%

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM H. WETMORE OF RALEIGH, NORTH CAROLINA.

BOOT OR SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 297,207, dated April 22, 1884.

Application filed February 19, 1884.

To a/ZZ whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM H. WETMORE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Raleigh, in the county of Wake and State of North Carolina, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boots and Shoes, of

which the following specification is a full,

l clear, and exact description.

This invention relates to that class of boots and shoes in which the upper is secured to the sole partly by stitching and partly by screws,

' from top to bottom, while at the shank the upper has been turned under the same inner sole. In passing from the stitching to the pegging; therefore, it is necessaryto bend the upper entirely around the edge of the inner sole, so that from being on top it now comes underneath. The result is an ugly or difficult turn, with a corresponding want of tightness in the seam at that point. The difficulty in this respect has been further increased by the distance between the two seams where one seam is used to stitch the upper to the inner sole and asecond one to stitch it to the outer sole. present invention the difficulties are avoided, and a more comfortable, durable, neater, and cheaper boot or shoe. with a closer seam or junction between the upper and sole than heretofore, is produced. Around the front part of the boot or shoe the upper is stitched to the side or edge of the inner sole, the stitches passing obliquely through the sole from the middle of the edge to the bottom. By a second seam in close proximity to the first this part of the upper is stitched to the outer sole. The second seam is run as close as may be alongside the irst, so that in the finished article they appear substantially as one seam along the margin of the upper. The stitches of the second seam also are or may be inclined inward toward the bottom, so that they tend to draw the upper against the lower edge of the inner sole or into the crack between the inner and outer sole. The upper has a sufficient margin outside this seam to give a hold to the thread, and this is In the (No model.)

all that is necessary. The sole need therefore p project but a short distance beyond the Lipper. At the shank the upper has its edge turned in under the inner sole, between it and the outer sole, and is there secured by cable-screws or equivalent fastening devices. As the upper has been stitched to the side or edge and not to the top ofthe inner sole, it will lie evenly against said edge all the way around and will hug it closely. The stitching may extend quite to the point where the upper is turned in. This point is as tight as the rest of the shoe, and the turn does not detract from the neatness of the article.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a side view of a shoe made in accordance with the invention; Fig. 2, a cross-section on line x Fig. l; and Fig. 3, a cross-section online yy.

Ais the upper, B the inner sole, C the outer sole, and D a filling-sole.

The upper is made of strong leather or 1naterial such as commonly used in the manufacture of heavy goods. It is first united to the inner sole around the ball and toe of the boot or shoe by means of the seam a. This seam is made through the upper and diagonally through the inner sole. The stitches enter the inner sole at or near the middle of the side or edge, and pass out on the bottoni at about a half-inch (more or less) from the edge. The upper is thus drawn against the side or edge oftheinner sole and does not lap over the top. After this sea-m is made and before the upper along the shank is lasted over or around the edge of the inner sole, (as customary in making pegged or cabled shoes,) the edge then in front of the shank or margin outside the seam a is turned outward, so that it lies on a level with the bottom of the inner sole. The upper is then lasted in at the shank. The outer sole is applied, and is fas-tened by a row of cablescrews, b, along the shank to the point where the upper is turned out. These screws pass through the two soles and the turned-in upper between them. The outwardly-turned margin of the upper is then stitched to theouter sole, C, (and filling-sole D,) by the seam c. This seam lies close to and parallel with the seain a. It is preferably inclined inward at the bottoni, and is made as close as possible to the rstinner seam. It draws the upper close to the edge of the inner sole, which makes the cornbined strength of the two seams much greater. I passing through the upper in close proximity The proximity of the two seams to each other, whereby they practically appear as one, gives a neater finish to the article than when they are more Widely separated It also enables the upper to be trimmed closer to the inner seam, and thus eiects a saving in material.

Having thus described my invention andthe manner in which the same is to be performed, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

The improved boot or shoe described, the same having the upper united around the front to the side or edge of the inner sole by stitches passing through the upper and diagonally through the inner sole from the side or edge to the bottom, and to the outer sole by stitches to and parallel with thoseof the iirst seam and through the outer sole, and having the said upper turned in at the shank between the outer and inner soles, and there fastened by cableserews or equivalent fastening devices, the lnarginof the upper around thefront of the boot or shoe being turned outward below the upright portion, which is fastened to the edge or side of the inner'sole, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

TWILLIAM II. VETMORE. .Vitnesses:

IEDWD. I). PARKER, W. E. ANDERSON. 

